Denise Stegmann on September 15th 2019
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links from Amazon, meaning I may receive compensation at no additional cost to you.
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links from Amazon, meaning I may receive compensation at no additional cost to you.
Winter Getaway with baby
Minnesota North shore in the Winter
Ice, Ice, Baby- Lake Superior under snow and ice
When we were the newest parents and needed a relaxing adventure we packed our four month old in the car in January and drove to Lake Superior. For us this was about six hours in the car. Three hours to Duluth, and then three more hours to Bluefin Bay near Grand Marais (actually Lutsen/Tofte). This was an easy journey. We had been to Lake Superior many times but never during the magical time of winter. It felt new in many ways.
We really don't travel a lot by car but it has obvious advantages when traveling with children. You can bring whatever fits into your car, no lines at the airport, you can take as many breaks as you need to (even though it might take you an eternity to get to your destination- nursing moms, I'm talking to you), and you will most likely not disturb any travelers other than your family members. But this trip was clearly a car trip. We just packed up the car in the evening and took off in the morning when we felt like it.
Despite it being winter, it was an uninterrupted drive to Duluth in January 2015. We had been to Duluth before, so we knew what to expect. An unexpected surprise was that you don't have to pay for parking at Canal Park in the winter months. Canal Park is the entertainment district of Duluth, and is very popular and busy with tourists in the summer. You can see the famous Aerial Lift Bridge in action when big ships are coming in from Lake Superior, enjoy the boardwalk along the lake, visit restaurants and souvenir shop in some touristy or higher end shops.
In the winter though this area is very quiet, still charming but quiet and frozen. During this trip we had just planned on going to the cozy Amazing Grace www.amazinggracebakeryandcafe.com/. They have fresh, homemade and healthy food, and a charming low key vibe. Our son needed to nurse while we were there, and I was able to sit down in a comfy chair by an aquarium while giving him his milk. This is one of my more pleasant public nursing memories.
We really don't travel a lot by car but it has obvious advantages when traveling with children. You can bring whatever fits into your car, no lines at the airport, you can take as many breaks as you need to (even though it might take you an eternity to get to your destination- nursing moms, I'm talking to you), and you will most likely not disturb any travelers other than your family members. But this trip was clearly a car trip. We just packed up the car in the evening and took off in the morning when we felt like it.
Despite it being winter, it was an uninterrupted drive to Duluth in January 2015. We had been to Duluth before, so we knew what to expect. An unexpected surprise was that you don't have to pay for parking at Canal Park in the winter months. Canal Park is the entertainment district of Duluth, and is very popular and busy with tourists in the summer. You can see the famous Aerial Lift Bridge in action when big ships are coming in from Lake Superior, enjoy the boardwalk along the lake, visit restaurants and souvenir shop in some touristy or higher end shops.
In the winter though this area is very quiet, still charming but quiet and frozen. During this trip we had just planned on going to the cozy Amazing Grace www.amazinggracebakeryandcafe.com/. They have fresh, homemade and healthy food, and a charming low key vibe. Our son needed to nurse while we were there, and I was able to sit down in a comfy chair by an aquarium while giving him his milk. This is one of my more pleasant public nursing memories.
When we were done with our lunch, we just kept going. Since it were the winter months we just passed Gooseberry Falls and the Splitrock Lighthouse. In the summer you absolutely must make these stops, but this time we just kept on driving. The only stop we made was a café on the Scenic Drive, Mocha Moose Coffee Cafe www.facebook.com/mochamoosemn. They were able to make me a sweet dairy free coffee drink, we browsed through their artsy store and kept on driving. It was almost dark by the time we got to Bluefin Bay www.bluefinbay.com/. I had chosen this lakeside family resort because of its indoor pool and its views of Lake Superior that you can enjoy from a family sized tub. The lobby was homey and modern. Check in was quick. We had to cross the parking lot to get to our condo. And the view really was nothing short of spectacular. In the next days we spent hours just sitting in comfy chairs marveling at the majestic Lake Superior surrounded and covered by snow and ice. And we used the tub. Most likely meant for newlyweds, but we used it with our baby. Also perfect!
What else made Bluefin Bay perfect for a visit with baby
fridge in room, order food from the restaurant to your room
What else made Bluefin Bay perfect for a visit with baby
fridge in room, order food from the restaurant to your room
But we didn’t just stay inside, we also walked the beautiful boardwalk of the resort. It took us to more lookout points, by the outdoor pool that’s even open in the winter, and to another welcoming cafe.
One of the days we got into the car, not even with a solid plan. But we ended up at the Grand Portage National Monument, which has a Heritage Visitor Center open year round. What a treat for a history buff and lover of learning about Native American heritage, Ojibwe to be specific. I think if you come here in the summer it must be a crazy busy place. But in the winter the park rangers actually had to turn on the light for us. Yes, you heard right, they were open and had to get the whole operation started, just for us. It was wonderful to have this very informative place full of artifacts just for us. No need to worry about our crying baby, all the time in the world to discover. I might have even nursed during the introductory video show, and might have changed a really poopy diaper. No one has to know for sure, but this might have happened in the big empty room with the movie screen.
Grand Portage National Monument
This place has plenty to offer in the warmer months, and I highly recommend visiting it. It's a national monument located inside a reservation. It's a historically significant spot since this exact place became the meeting point for French Canadian fur traders and the successful North West Company in the late 1700s. Voyagers transported their furs by canoe, and then used this portage to bypass waterfalls to get to the depot of the North West Company. Explore a reconstructed fort and Ojibwe village. They even have historic reenactments in the summer. You can still hike the portage (8.5 miles) today, and marvel at the beautiful waterfall.
Naniboujou Lodge
National Register of Historic Places. Would have loved to try this unique looking restaurant with a delicious sounding menu. Just click the link and admire the Art Ceco inspired painted inside www.naniboujou.com/, really unique. Unfortunately they weren't open at the time when we were in the area. They are supposed to have a perfect weekend brunch.
One of the days we got into the car, not even with a solid plan. But we ended up at the Grand Portage National Monument, which has a Heritage Visitor Center open year round. What a treat for a history buff and lover of learning about Native American heritage, Ojibwe to be specific. I think if you come here in the summer it must be a crazy busy place. But in the winter the park rangers actually had to turn on the light for us. Yes, you heard right, they were open and had to get the whole operation started, just for us. It was wonderful to have this very informative place full of artifacts just for us. No need to worry about our crying baby, all the time in the world to discover. I might have even nursed during the introductory video show, and might have changed a really poopy diaper. No one has to know for sure, but this might have happened in the big empty room with the movie screen.
Grand Portage National Monument
This place has plenty to offer in the warmer months, and I highly recommend visiting it. It's a national monument located inside a reservation. It's a historically significant spot since this exact place became the meeting point for French Canadian fur traders and the successful North West Company in the late 1700s. Voyagers transported their furs by canoe, and then used this portage to bypass waterfalls to get to the depot of the North West Company. Explore a reconstructed fort and Ojibwe village. They even have historic reenactments in the summer. You can still hike the portage (8.5 miles) today, and marvel at the beautiful waterfall.
Naniboujou Lodge
National Register of Historic Places. Would have loved to try this unique looking restaurant with a delicious sounding menu. Just click the link and admire the Art Ceco inspired painted inside www.naniboujou.com/, really unique. Unfortunately they weren't open at the time when we were in the area. They are supposed to have a perfect weekend brunch.
How to keep baby warm in freezing temperatures
Newborns and infants are not able to self regulate temperature that is why you have to really think about how to take your baby outside in the winter. If you are looking at the pictures closely, you might be able to tell that there is a baby in my husband's coat. He just put our son into a baby carrier and zipped his jacket over him, of course making sure that there would still be enough airflow for our son. You still have to keep your baby's head and feet covered, and watch for warning signs of your baby being uncomfortable (but you probably do that all the time anyway). Body warmth is the best way to keep a baby warm in freezing temperatures. Body warmth has been used by indigenous tribes for centuries to make sure they could safely take their youngest outside during the harshest conditions. In case you are curious what such a traditional garment looks like, click on this link for modern Amautis amautibaby.com/gallery.html.
Baby's soft skin is vulnerable to frost bite. That's why I have been using Weleda Wind und Wetterbalsam on my baby's skin to keep it less exposed to cold wind and freezing precipitation. It's a German product, that's popular among European skiers. Luckily the American Amazon store sells it.
Baby's soft skin is vulnerable to frost bite. That's why I have been using Weleda Wind und Wetterbalsam on my baby's skin to keep it less exposed to cold wind and freezing precipitation. It's a German product, that's popular among European skiers. Luckily the American Amazon store sells it.
getting there on Scenic highway 61
If you are from out of state you will either need to fly into Minneapolis (MSP), or Duluth (DLH). Rent a car. Drive 4 hours to Bluefin Bay Resort from MSP airport, or 1hour and 45 minutes from DLH airport. Drive on Highway 61 and listen to Bob Dylan's album named after this Highway. Make sure you take the old highway, and not the expressway. From Bluefin Bay resort to Grand Marais it is 30 minutes, and to Grand Portage it will be a little over 1 hour.
Winter Driving
If you are from out of state you might not be used to driving in wintery conditions. So here some safety advice.
Stops on the North Shore from Duluth to Grand Portage
If you happen to see this post while planning this trip during a warmer time of year you'll have to make time for these stops between Duluth and Grand Portage.
Winter Driving
If you are from out of state you might not be used to driving in wintery conditions. So here some safety advice.
- Be aware of snow storms and icy conditions, follow the weather forecast
- Drive slowly
- Accelerate and decelerate slowly, you might not be able to stop as fast as you need to
- Keep a bigger distance to the car in front of you
- Observe the car in front of you, this might alert you of ice
- Don't stop going up a hill
- Have an emergency supply of water and warm clothing
Stops on the North Shore from Duluth to Grand Portage
If you happen to see this post while planning this trip during a warmer time of year you'll have to make time for these stops between Duluth and Grand Portage.
- Gooseberry Falls State Park- just a walk to the spectacular water falls make this a worthwhile stop, but you can also take a longer walk to the Lake Superior Shore
- Split Rock Lighthouse- Tour the historic lighthouse and learn about its fascinating history. Its been installed to repel ships, but just imagine that when it was built there was no road to get there. The view of Lake Superior is also a treat.
- Palisade Head- Breathtaking scenic spot right off the highway, you have to look for a sign a few miles north of Silver Bay. In the summer there is a winding narrow road that you can drive up by car. In the winter that road is closed but you can still hike up (1 mile round trip). You are high up on a cliff enjoying the view of Lake Superior. Be careful with young children since there is no guard rail.
- Grand Marais- artsy little town right on Lake Superior. There are restaurants, cafes and higher quality little stores to explore. I love the artsy, outdoorsy vibe of Grand Marais.
- Grand Portage National Park and Monument- In the winter you can access the Heritage Visitor Center, and also hike to Minnesota's highest waterfall (120 feet). In the summer there is lots more to discover, like a reconstructed Ojibwe village and fur trading post.