Denise Stegmann on August 21st 2019
Côte d’Azur
Keeping it relaxed with children at the french Riviera
I have gotten to know the Côte d’Azur pretty well with a boyfriend of the way past in another life. We were so unbelievably young, stayed mostly with his French granddad, swam in a quarry and drove along the coast of southern France. Seriously another life. Now I am writing this travel plan with our Minnesota neighbors in mind. They have two boys roughly the age of my children (4 and almost 3 years old). So I have a mental image of where they are going, and I have an idea what it is like to travel with active boys that age.
Is finding “La Joie de Vivre” on the Côte d’Azur even possible with young children? Yes, absolutely. Key will be a relaxed approach with a flexible itinerary, and to just enjoy the moment.
Our neighbors are going to have their base in Vence. Many glamorous cities with old world charm in stunning locations, and smaller charming medieval towns are there to be discovered. Everything is just a car ride away.
This is going to be a list of places that should be worthwhile to add to your itinerary when exploring this part of the world with young children. I also tried to include useful information, and some thoughts on how to accomplish this outing with your children.
I included opening days and times when they were odd. Otherwise you can assume that the museums are open all week long, except for major holidays.
I refrained from including any recommendations for eating since this seems be one area where it should just be fun to discover local options.
I refrained from including any recommendations for eating since this seems be one area where it should just be fun to discover local options.
Vence
20 minutes from Nice airport
This town really seems like the ideal base camp for this region. It's not going to feel urban, and should offer plenty of French charm. A perfect retreat for the days when you are not going to be exploring.
Friends who know the region well highly recommended stopping at the local tourist office to get valuable information, for example on hikes or current events.
Chapel of the Rosary, designed and decorated by Henri Matisse (Tue, Thu, Fri 10am-12pm, 2pm-6pm, Wed, Sat 2pm-6pm, summer opening times until Oct 30th)
Markets ,daily flower market at Place du Grand Jardin, organic market on Saturdays.
This town really seems like the ideal base camp for this region. It's not going to feel urban, and should offer plenty of French charm. A perfect retreat for the days when you are not going to be exploring.
Friends who know the region well highly recommended stopping at the local tourist office to get valuable information, for example on hikes or current events.
Chapel of the Rosary, designed and decorated by Henri Matisse (Tue, Thu, Fri 10am-12pm, 2pm-6pm, Wed, Sat 2pm-6pm, summer opening times until Oct 30th)
Markets ,daily flower market at Place du Grand Jardin, organic market on Saturdays.
St. Paul de vence
One of many medieval hill towns that beg to be discovered. Find the Fondation Maeght, and focus on the gardens and Miro’s maze, which is a set set of 250 sculptures and ceramics by Miro. This labyrinth takes you through the mind and imagination of the artist. The location must be beautiful with views of the Mediterranean. Sounds ideal for children, and their art interested parents.
nice
35 minute car ride from Vence
This most urban and glamorous town of the Cote d’Azur cannot be missed. You will be able to find many attractions that will cater to children and adults alike.
Promenade des Anglaise, rent a bike or family pedal cart, take in the scenery of the boardwalk and gaze at the blue sea. Marvel with your children at the colorful gigantic Niki de St. Phalle sculptures.
No visit to Nice is complete without some beach time. Of course, you can just go to the beach, pick up some rocks, throw them into the Mediterranean and get your feet wet. Or you can go to a beach club. You are more likely to feel like you are getting the full experience. You actually might feel excluded if you don’t go to a beach club. Indulge on sun loungers, cocktails, seaside restaurants, and if you pick the right one, let your children enjoy a play area on the beach. Prices vary and depend on how much of the club’s services you are intending on using. At a minimum you are going to pay for sunbeds, a parasol and towels. If you want to stay on the budget side, just enjoy the beach without the club.
Matisse museum, lovely small museum that might not be too much for your children, it’s also located in a park, so you can let your children run around before and after (Wed-Mon 10am-6pm).
Vieux Nice (old town)
You will want to discover the old town of Nice, walk the seemingly never ending dark and narrow streets. It should be a delight to discover. Part of the old town is the Colline du Château. This castle is at the top of a hill, and offers stunning views of the city, and you will find a park with a hidden waterfall. To make it easier to get there with children you might want to consider taking the Petit Train de Nice (tourist train). It makes a stop an the castle and also takes you to the Promenade du Paillon. The Promenade du Paillon is a newly built park and green space, with a popular water fountain for children to play in, and also an exciting playground. If you don't take the train to the Promenade du Paillon you can also walk through here while you walk from the old town to the new town. Apparently this is the place to be for the children of Nice.
Parc Phoenix
If you need an experience that is geared towards children go to this park. It’s one of the biggest glass houses in Europe, houses 6 different climate zones, exotic plants, birds and animals. This might be a rainy day activity when you are just looking for an indoor play area for your children. But it wouldn't hurt to skip it, just go if you need it.
This most urban and glamorous town of the Cote d’Azur cannot be missed. You will be able to find many attractions that will cater to children and adults alike.
Promenade des Anglaise, rent a bike or family pedal cart, take in the scenery of the boardwalk and gaze at the blue sea. Marvel with your children at the colorful gigantic Niki de St. Phalle sculptures.
No visit to Nice is complete without some beach time. Of course, you can just go to the beach, pick up some rocks, throw them into the Mediterranean and get your feet wet. Or you can go to a beach club. You are more likely to feel like you are getting the full experience. You actually might feel excluded if you don’t go to a beach club. Indulge on sun loungers, cocktails, seaside restaurants, and if you pick the right one, let your children enjoy a play area on the beach. Prices vary and depend on how much of the club’s services you are intending on using. At a minimum you are going to pay for sunbeds, a parasol and towels. If you want to stay on the budget side, just enjoy the beach without the club.
Matisse museum, lovely small museum that might not be too much for your children, it’s also located in a park, so you can let your children run around before and after (Wed-Mon 10am-6pm).
Vieux Nice (old town)
You will want to discover the old town of Nice, walk the seemingly never ending dark and narrow streets. It should be a delight to discover. Part of the old town is the Colline du Château. This castle is at the top of a hill, and offers stunning views of the city, and you will find a park with a hidden waterfall. To make it easier to get there with children you might want to consider taking the Petit Train de Nice (tourist train). It makes a stop an the castle and also takes you to the Promenade du Paillon. The Promenade du Paillon is a newly built park and green space, with a popular water fountain for children to play in, and also an exciting playground. If you don't take the train to the Promenade du Paillon you can also walk through here while you walk from the old town to the new town. Apparently this is the place to be for the children of Nice.
Parc Phoenix
If you need an experience that is geared towards children go to this park. It’s one of the biggest glass houses in Europe, houses 6 different climate zones, exotic plants, birds and animals. This might be a rainy day activity when you are just looking for an indoor play area for your children. But it wouldn't hurt to skip it, just go if you need it.
monaco
1 hour from Vence
This is actually the world's smallest counrty. As you can imagine it is so crowded, with buildings, cars, people, even the harbor is crowded with boats. Take your time to drive through here, it's a must see. In my opinion it's not worth stopping, but you should allow time for driving through Monacco, and then to also stop at the Musée Oceanographique de Monaco. After exploring everything this fantastic aquarium has to offer, go for a walk on the outside to breathe some fresh ocean air on the cliff that the museum is built on. It's a fantastic view and makes you appreciate all the effort that was put into building this site.
This is actually the world's smallest counrty. As you can imagine it is so crowded, with buildings, cars, people, even the harbor is crowded with boats. Take your time to drive through here, it's a must see. In my opinion it's not worth stopping, but you should allow time for driving through Monacco, and then to also stop at the Musée Oceanographique de Monaco. After exploring everything this fantastic aquarium has to offer, go for a walk on the outside to breathe some fresh ocean air on the cliff that the museum is built on. It's a fantastic view and makes you appreciate all the effort that was put into building this site.
cannes
1 hour from Vence
Just like Monaco, Cannes is a rich people's playground. But it does have a beautiful seaside promenade, and a sandy beach. The beach to go to would be Plage de la Bocca, a more laid back, public beach that is apparently also popular with young families. So there might be a chance for your children to connect with the locals.
Take a boat ride to the Iles de Lerins, you have to decide beforehand which one you want to do since there are no ferries between the two islands, to do both you would have to return to the mainland. Pack a baguette and some cheese, these islands make for a perfect picnic. Concessions are limited. If you feel like going to an island this could be your opportunity. Boat rides are fun for children, and you’ll be rewarded with views of the Cote d’Azur. Ferries leave from the western side of the harbour, from Quai des Iles.
Just like Monaco, Cannes is a rich people's playground. But it does have a beautiful seaside promenade, and a sandy beach. The beach to go to would be Plage de la Bocca, a more laid back, public beach that is apparently also popular with young families. So there might be a chance for your children to connect with the locals.
Take a boat ride to the Iles de Lerins, you have to decide beforehand which one you want to do since there are no ferries between the two islands, to do both you would have to return to the mainland. Pack a baguette and some cheese, these islands make for a perfect picnic. Concessions are limited. If you feel like going to an island this could be your opportunity. Boat rides are fun for children, and you’ll be rewarded with views of the Cote d’Azur. Ferries leave from the western side of the harbour, from Quai des Iles.
grasse
38 minutes from Vence
Exploring Grasse could be combined with going to Cannes depending on how you spend your day in Cannes.
Have you seen the movie "Perfume: Story of a Murderer"? Consider watching it before you go, it might give you a unique angle when exploring this town. Grasse is all about perfume. You can learn about its history, and even book workshops to create your own scent. It's an art and a science. Few people in the world can be considered "le nez" (the nose). They have the olfactory ability to create perfume worthy scents. It takes years of studies, and abstaining from drinking, smoking and spicy foods. The previously mentioned movie, based on a book, evolves around such a character and is based in Grasse.
The Musee International de la Parfumerie is the must see museum in Grasse. It really sounds like a museum that should be interesting for adults and children alike. It has different child friendly features such as multimedia stations and a reconstructed 19th century perfume shop.
The gardens Les Jardin du MIP also sound worthwhile. Again, also suitable for children who love to spend time outdoors, and like to discover plants that give off pleasant scents when you rub them between your fingers. The gardens are located in a different town, Mougins, a short car ride from Grasse. It's open all year long, but I haven't found any information whether there are no growing seasons. Mougins is also going to be another beautiful village to add to your list.
Exploring Grasse could be combined with going to Cannes depending on how you spend your day in Cannes.
Have you seen the movie "Perfume: Story of a Murderer"? Consider watching it before you go, it might give you a unique angle when exploring this town. Grasse is all about perfume. You can learn about its history, and even book workshops to create your own scent. It's an art and a science. Few people in the world can be considered "le nez" (the nose). They have the olfactory ability to create perfume worthy scents. It takes years of studies, and abstaining from drinking, smoking and spicy foods. The previously mentioned movie, based on a book, evolves around such a character and is based in Grasse.
The Musee International de la Parfumerie is the must see museum in Grasse. It really sounds like a museum that should be interesting for adults and children alike. It has different child friendly features such as multimedia stations and a reconstructed 19th century perfume shop.
The gardens Les Jardin du MIP also sound worthwhile. Again, also suitable for children who love to spend time outdoors, and like to discover plants that give off pleasant scents when you rub them between your fingers. The gardens are located in a different town, Mougins, a short car ride from Grasse. It's open all year long, but I haven't found any information whether there are no growing seasons. Mougins is also going to be another beautiful village to add to your list.
a day in the provence
avignon
&
Les Baux-de-provence
2.5 hour car ride to get into the region)
This is time in the car, but really, how often are you going to be in this part of the world? Unfortunately you will most likely not find any lavender fields in bloom in October (lavender blooms late spring, early summer) but this region still has plenty to offer.
Avignon
In my opinion Avignon can't be missed. In medieval times the city used to be the home of several popes over a time span of 70 years. This made Avignon the center of the world at that time. Today you'll find a truly stunning city that continues to impress with mediterranean medieval charm. You could visit the Palais de Papes, or you could just take Le Petite Train d'Avignon from there to take a quick 40 minute narrated (different language options) tour of the city. Which one do you think your children would have more fun doing? In pre-childrearing days this would have seemed like an obvious choice but with children you might really want to consider the touristy train ride. Personally I don't hate a narrated tour, easiest way to learn about an otherwise foreign city. Just have fun and be informed. If you choose the palace over the train, be aware that the palace actually has been cleared out over the centuries and is pretty empty today. From the palace you can hike to the Parc de Rochers des Domes to get a view of the Pont d'Avignon (teach your children the folk song "Sur le pont d'Avignon" beforehand), the bridge that goes halfway into the Rhône. If you want to walk onto the ancient bridge that had not been rebuilt after several floods you will have to pay an entrance fee which will include an audio guide and views.
This is time in the car, but really, how often are you going to be in this part of the world? Unfortunately you will most likely not find any lavender fields in bloom in October (lavender blooms late spring, early summer) but this region still has plenty to offer.
Avignon
In my opinion Avignon can't be missed. In medieval times the city used to be the home of several popes over a time span of 70 years. This made Avignon the center of the world at that time. Today you'll find a truly stunning city that continues to impress with mediterranean medieval charm. You could visit the Palais de Papes, or you could just take Le Petite Train d'Avignon from there to take a quick 40 minute narrated (different language options) tour of the city. Which one do you think your children would have more fun doing? In pre-childrearing days this would have seemed like an obvious choice but with children you might really want to consider the touristy train ride. Personally I don't hate a narrated tour, easiest way to learn about an otherwise foreign city. Just have fun and be informed. If you choose the palace over the train, be aware that the palace actually has been cleared out over the centuries and is pretty empty today. From the palace you can hike to the Parc de Rochers des Domes to get a view of the Pont d'Avignon (teach your children the folk song "Sur le pont d'Avignon" beforehand), the bridge that goes halfway into the Rhône. If you want to walk onto the ancient bridge that had not been rebuilt after several floods you will have to pay an entrance fee which will include an audio guide and views.
Carrières De Lumières and Les Baux-De-Provence
40 minute car ride from Avignon that will slowly take you back to Vence. Look up this spectacular display of art yourself, and see if this is for you. It's a 20 minute light and sound presentation that changes seasonally. Set in a quarry this would certainly entice my senses. www.carrieres-lumieres.com/ If your children are not afraid of the dark and loud music this should certainly be a child friendly opportunity for art of the region. There should be a Van Gogh display for October 2019. Bring a jacket.
Les Beaux-De-Provence is one of the most beautiful provençal hilltop villages. Here you will also find the castle ruins of Château des Baux. Make sure you allow some time to visit this town while you are there.
You can buy a combined ticket for Carrières De Lumières and the château.
40 minute car ride from Avignon that will slowly take you back to Vence. Look up this spectacular display of art yourself, and see if this is for you. It's a 20 minute light and sound presentation that changes seasonally. Set in a quarry this would certainly entice my senses. www.carrieres-lumieres.com/ If your children are not afraid of the dark and loud music this should certainly be a child friendly opportunity for art of the region. There should be a Van Gogh display for October 2019. Bring a jacket.
Les Beaux-De-Provence is one of the most beautiful provençal hilltop villages. Here you will also find the castle ruins of Château des Baux. Make sure you allow some time to visit this town while you are there.
You can buy a combined ticket for Carrières De Lumières and the château.