Written by Denise Stegmann in October 2019
Martha's Vineyard with our 1 Year old
When my first child had just turned one our little family of three went to Martha’s Vineyard in the fall of 2015. It was meant to be a recharging easy getaway after a busy summer during which my husband and I had hardly seen each other. While he had almost constantly be gone working I had accumulated dire sleep deprivation that only mothers of young children are familiar with. My already one year old still woke up three times per night, and I had accepted this reality that now seemed to be my life. At that point I didn’t know that my child would actually start to sleep through the night a few weeks later, all I knew was that the term ‘self care’ had become part of my vocabulary. Is there a better way to self care and family bonding than a short trip to the beach?
Unfortunately living in Minnesota means that the next ocean is only accessible by plane, realistically. .
I am from a part of Germany that is moderately close to the North Sea and Baltic Sea, and I had always gone with my parents on carefree beach vacations. For me this type of beach time continues to be the epitome of a perfect family vacation. To feel the sand under your feet, maybe build a sand castle, feel the ocean breeze and go into the water which is just warm enough because of the constant waves rolling in. So of course I wanted this for my child who did not even walk yet.
This is where the idea of shoulder season Martha’s Vineyard started to emerge, the need to spend time as a family, a desire for the sea and sand, and the acceptance that getting to a beach was going to involve lengthy travel anyway. Martha’s Vineyard, an island off the coast of Massachusetts, was going to be our destination.
Unfortunately living in Minnesota means that the next ocean is only accessible by plane, realistically. .
I am from a part of Germany that is moderately close to the North Sea and Baltic Sea, and I had always gone with my parents on carefree beach vacations. For me this type of beach time continues to be the epitome of a perfect family vacation. To feel the sand under your feet, maybe build a sand castle, feel the ocean breeze and go into the water which is just warm enough because of the constant waves rolling in. So of course I wanted this for my child who did not even walk yet.
This is where the idea of shoulder season Martha’s Vineyard started to emerge, the need to spend time as a family, a desire for the sea and sand, and the acceptance that getting to a beach was going to involve lengthy travel anyway. Martha’s Vineyard, an island off the coast of Massachusetts, was going to be our destination.
Off season Winnetu resort
My online research had surfaced the fabulously sounding Winnetu Resort www.winnetu.com/. Rated as one of the top toddler friendly resorts by several websites, this hotel seemed to be the perfect fit for us. An added bonus were the toddler program and the included breakfast during the shoulder season.
cape air from boston to martha's vineyard
We flew from Minneapolis to Boston, and took a Cape Air flight from there to Martha’s Vineyard. Little did I know that we would actually fly in one of these small planes where you pretty much sit in the cockpit with the pilot, a Britten-Norman Islander (BN2) to be exact. I had been on such flights before, and actually find them very exciting. My one year old could not have cared less, he just fell asleep as soon as the plane took off, and I had a chance to just enjoy the view.
first impressions
I always appreciate a nice airport, and Martha’s Vineyard did not disappoint. That’s a small airport done right. We took a cab from the airport to the resort. Shame on us, we didn’t bring a car seat. But of all the places in the world Martha’s Vineyard’s roads felt very safe.
The Winnetu resort made a fabulous first impression, and they actually had the requested Pack’n Play set up. This shouldn’t even be worth mentioning, but sadly it is. With most hotels you request a Pack’n Play but then you have to follow up once you check in and find the room without it. So two thumbs up for the Winnetu resort. There really wasn’t any kind of service that was subpar, everyone tried to do their best the whole time even though this was the end of a most likely busy season.
The Winnetu resort made a fabulous first impression, and they actually had the requested Pack’n Play set up. This shouldn’t even be worth mentioning, but sadly it is. With most hotels you request a Pack’n Play but then you have to follow up once you check in and find the room without it. So two thumbs up for the Winnetu resort. There really wasn’t any kind of service that was subpar, everyone tried to do their best the whole time even though this was the end of a most likely busy season.
easy dinner with out toddler at the winnetu resort
One thing that really stood out and was very much appreciated by everyone in our family was the included “babysitting” during dinners at The Dunes www.winnetu.com/marthas-vineyard-restaurants/thedunes/. The restaurant had an area set up as a play space with many toys, and one young woman who watched the children as needed so that parents could enjoy their dinner. This was so wonderful and easy, it really makes me wonder why there are not more restaurants like that in the world. I should also mention that they have an outdoor area with a scenic view.
four nights better than three
We stayed on Martha’s Vineyard for three nights, but this little vacation actually made us decide that we’ll never stay somewhere for less than four nights ever again. So far we have stuck to this commitment.
I would usually describe us as the kind of people who don’t need many hotel amenities, we are usually very happy with what the nature around us has to offer, and also enjoy discovering anything cultural at our destination. In these three days we did all that, and also enjoyed what the resort had to offer. They have a toddler program that takes place in the spring and fall, but we were actually too late for that. We still had the chance to explore their toddler play area that was quite fun inside and outside.
I would usually describe us as the kind of people who don’t need many hotel amenities, we are usually very happy with what the nature around us has to offer, and also enjoy discovering anything cultural at our destination. In these three days we did all that, and also enjoyed what the resort had to offer. They have a toddler program that takes place in the spring and fall, but we were actually too late for that. We still had the chance to explore their toddler play area that was quite fun inside and outside.
south beach on Martha's vineyard
The beaches on Martha’s Vineyard are supposed to be the number one thing to do. And we followed that advice. Most of our time we spent at the wonderful beach, that is South beach which is considered to be the most beautiful beach on the island. It was wide and long, and had light colored sand and dunes in the background. Everything I had been hoping for. I especially enjoyed the beach chairs the hotel provided, they could be carried like a backpack. That made getting to the beach with the family less of a hassle.
The surf on the beach is rather rough, and I wouldn’t see young children sitting in the water for very long. My fearless crawling baby gave the waves a try, unexpectedly he really just crawled right in and was thrown over by an incoming wave right away, no harm done, of course we rescued him right away.
The surf on the beach is rather rough, and I wouldn’t see young children sitting in the water for very long. My fearless crawling baby gave the waves a try, unexpectedly he really just crawled right in and was thrown over by an incoming wave right away, no harm done, of course we rescued him right away.
vintage fire truck Tour
One morning we just found the concierge outside with the resort’s vintage fire truck. He took us for a spin, most likely the complementary tour that the resort offers anyway. I could see how certain older children would really enjoy this. Had my baby boy been any older he certainly would have squealed with excitement. At that time when he had just been one my husband and I might have enjoyed it more than him.
edgartown with our toddler in tow
Edgartown is one of these towns that is actually very glamorous and ritzy but is trying really hard to hide it and give off that everyday kind of charme that makes you think it is normal to eat Lobster and drink sparkling champagne for lunch. It is certainly charming, and cute and you kind of want to live there but then I tried to find a store that would sell Mac and Cheese, and that did not exist. And then it became clear that this town is actually not real life, but a very well done background for a New England tourist experience. Just consider that cruise ships actually put down anchor right there to let everyone have a piece of Martha’s Vineyard. Other than the Mac and Cheese failure Edgartown had fabulous shopping. High end, top quality small stores that sold clothing and decorative items that I would have loved to take home. Unfortunately caring for my first child for a year had turned me into quite the minimalist so I left everything that looked and felt so nice behind on the island.
Seafood Shanty theseafoodshanty.com/, this is where my husband finally ate a lobster, and my son had Fish and Chips, I faintly remember a subpar salad and a beer. The food didn’t seem outstanding but I did enjoy the outdoor bar atmosphere with view of the harbor.
We also enjoyed Behind The Bookstore Coffee Bar btbmv.com, a pet friendly coffee shop with outdoor seating under trees is always my ideal setting. They had delicious coffee beverages and a good selection of healthy and delicious food.
Seafood Shanty theseafoodshanty.com/, this is where my husband finally ate a lobster, and my son had Fish and Chips, I faintly remember a subpar salad and a beer. The food didn’t seem outstanding but I did enjoy the outdoor bar atmosphere with view of the harbor.
We also enjoyed Behind The Bookstore Coffee Bar btbmv.com, a pet friendly coffee shop with outdoor seating under trees is always my ideal setting. They had delicious coffee beverages and a good selection of healthy and delicious food.
The whaling history of Martha’s Vineyard had intrigued me when I had first started to read about the island. Martha’s Vineyard used to be known for its fishing and whale hunting in the 19th century. The Whaling church is one of the istoric buildings from this time period. The church was constructed by carpenters who also built ships. So this church was built by the community that used to exist on the island before its touristy days. Nowadays the church is a space for readings, concerts and other public events mvpreservation.org/properties/old-whaling-church/. With our pretty cranky baby this would not have been option but I’m sure a concert in this church would be a wonderful experience. We just enjoyed the gardens around the church, and the steps in its yards were the first steps our still crawling child ever mastered.
how to get to martha's vineyard from boston logan airport
There are many ways to get to Martha’s Vineyard for people who live on the East Coast. If you live on the East Coast and can make this a day trip you probably know your options. If you have to fly into Boston to get to Martha’s Vineyard you have the following options:
The Ferry www.steamshipauthority.com/schedules
The ferry to Vineyard Haven on Martha's Vineyard leaves from Woods Hole. A round trip fare for an adult is $16, children 4 and under are free, and children 5 to 12 years of age are $8.50. Depending on weather conditions the ferry ride takes about 45 minutes. If you park a car at the ferry terminal you will have to pay a daily fee ($8-$12).
Peter Pan Bus peterpanbus.com/routes/logan-to-woodshole-bus/
You will have to purchase tickets online or with a phone call. There are bus stops outside the terminals A, B, C and E, stops are on the lower level for passengers getting on the bus, stops for passengers getting off the bus are on the upper level. For Martha's Vineyard you will have to get on the bus to Woods Hole. The total bus ride takes about 5.5 hours, and then you will be dropped off at the dock of the Steamship Authority Ferry. Depending on weather conditions the ferry ride will take about 45 minutes. Children under the age of two travel for free as long as they are a lap child. So you are not required to have a car seat for your young child. If you want to use a car seat you will have to pay for a seat for your child, they do have a child fare. You will then arrive in Vineyard Haven. It's a picturesque town that should be worth exploring. The Winnetu Resort will provide transportation to you from there. For this itinerary to work you will have to arrive at the Boston Logan airport before noon at the latest.
Rent a Car at Boston Logan Airport and Bring it to Martha’s Vineyard
This would give you more flexibility than taking the Peter Pan Bus. Rent a car at the airport and drive to the ferry port. Then you can either leave the car at the ferry port, or take it with you to the island. Just beware that you have to make a ferry reservation for your car beforehand.
Airplane www.capeair.com/
Depending on the season Jet Blue also flies to Martha's Vineyard. But year round Cape Air is your only option.
The Ferry www.steamshipauthority.com/schedules
The ferry to Vineyard Haven on Martha's Vineyard leaves from Woods Hole. A round trip fare for an adult is $16, children 4 and under are free, and children 5 to 12 years of age are $8.50. Depending on weather conditions the ferry ride takes about 45 minutes. If you park a car at the ferry terminal you will have to pay a daily fee ($8-$12).
Peter Pan Bus peterpanbus.com/routes/logan-to-woodshole-bus/
You will have to purchase tickets online or with a phone call. There are bus stops outside the terminals A, B, C and E, stops are on the lower level for passengers getting on the bus, stops for passengers getting off the bus are on the upper level. For Martha's Vineyard you will have to get on the bus to Woods Hole. The total bus ride takes about 5.5 hours, and then you will be dropped off at the dock of the Steamship Authority Ferry. Depending on weather conditions the ferry ride will take about 45 minutes. Children under the age of two travel for free as long as they are a lap child. So you are not required to have a car seat for your young child. If you want to use a car seat you will have to pay for a seat for your child, they do have a child fare. You will then arrive in Vineyard Haven. It's a picturesque town that should be worth exploring. The Winnetu Resort will provide transportation to you from there. For this itinerary to work you will have to arrive at the Boston Logan airport before noon at the latest.
Rent a Car at Boston Logan Airport and Bring it to Martha’s Vineyard
This would give you more flexibility than taking the Peter Pan Bus. Rent a car at the airport and drive to the ferry port. Then you can either leave the car at the ferry port, or take it with you to the island. Just beware that you have to make a ferry reservation for your car beforehand.
Airplane www.capeair.com/
Depending on the season Jet Blue also flies to Martha's Vineyard. But year round Cape Air is your only option.
what if i don't bring a car to Maryha's vineyard
- Vineyard Transit Authority provides a comprehensive bus system that connects all towns. The advantage of taking public transportation with young children is that you don’t have to worry about car seats.
- Winnetu resort has a shuttle that runs back and forth between Edgartown and the resort.
- In addition to that Martha’s Vineyard is well known for casual biking. The Winnetu resort has a cooperation with Martha’s Vineyard Bike Rentals in Edgartown, and will organize delivery of bikes to the resort.
- And lastly, the resort also has a car available to guests, that you need to organize with the hotel’s concierge.